Most people picture Lapland covered in snow. We love winter too, but if you ask us when Lapland is at its most beautiful, a lot of us here would say autumn. Fewer people, lower prices, the forest in full colour and the first northern lights of the season reflected in the lakes.
Ruska: when the forest changes colour
In Finnish we have a word for the autumn colours: ruska. In Lapland it usually peaks in early to mid September. The birch leaves turn yellow, the ground cover goes deep red and orange, and the pines stay dark green, so the whole landscape looks painted. It doesn't last long, often only a couple of weeks, which is part of what makes it special.
Berries, mushrooms and everyman's right
In Finland everyone can walk in the forest and pick berries and mushrooms, also on private land, thanks to everyman's right. In August and September the forests around Rovaniemi are full of bilberries and lingonberries, and on the bogs you might find cloudberries, the orange "gold of Lapland". A small bowl of fresh lingonberries with breakfast is a very Finnish start to the day.
Just remember the basics: don't damage trees, leave no trash, and only pick mushrooms you know for sure.
The first northern lights
From late August the nights are dark enough for the aurora again. Autumn has one big advantage over winter: the lakes are still open. On a calm, clear night you get the lights in the sky and their reflection in the water. It's also mild enough to sit outside for hours without a full winter outfit.
Things to do in autumn
- Hiking. Ounasvaara has easy marked trails right next to town. Further out, Korouoma canyon and the Riisitunturi fells are great day trips.
- Reindeer farms. Most farms are open year round, and autumn is a calm, quiet time to visit them.
- Huskies. Many husky farms do cart rides or walks with the dogs before the snow comes.
- Sauna and a swim. The water is cold but not frozen. Sauna, lake, sauna again. Repeat.
- Northern lights tours. See our
Experiences page for tours you can book directly.
Weather and what to wear
September is usually around +5 to +12 °C during the day, October closer to 0 to +5 °C, and nights can drop below zero. Bring a waterproof jacket, a warm sweater, a hat and good walking shoes or boots. The first snow often comes in October, and some years it stays from early November.
Why autumn is a smart time to visit
- Fewer tourists, so popular places feel calm
- Lower accommodation prices than in December or February
- Long, dark evenings for the aurora, but still daylight for hiking
- Easy driving conditions before the snow and ice
If this sounds like your kind of trip, have a look at our
homes by the lakes and forests. Several of them have a private sauna and a terrace facing the water, which is exactly where you want to be on a clear autumn night.
