Lapland Guides by Lapland Host

Autumn in Lapland: ruska colours, berries and the first northern lights

Mon, 05 Oct 2026 07:30:54 GMT

Why many locals think September is the best month of the year.

Most people picture Lapland covered in snow. We love winter too, but if you ask us when Lapland is at its most beautiful, a lot of us here would say autumn. Fewer people, lower prices, the forest in full colour and the first northern lights of the season reflected in the lakes.

Ruska: when the forest changes colour

In Finnish we have a word for the autumn colours: ruska. In Lapland it usually peaks in early to mid September. The birch leaves turn yellow, the ground cover goes deep red and orange, and the pines stay dark green, so the whole landscape looks painted. It doesn't last long, often only a couple of weeks, which is part of what makes it special.

Berries, mushrooms and everyman's right

In Finland everyone can walk in the forest and pick berries and mushrooms, also on private land, thanks to everyman's right. In August and September the forests around Rovaniemi are full of bilberries and lingonberries, and on the bogs you might find cloudberries, the orange "gold of Lapland". A small bowl of fresh lingonberries with breakfast is a very Finnish start to the day.

Just remember the basics: don't damage trees, leave no trash, and only pick mushrooms you know for sure.

The first northern lights

From late August the nights are dark enough for the aurora again. Autumn has one big advantage over winter: the lakes are still open. On a calm, clear night you get the lights in the sky and their reflection in the water. It's also mild enough to sit outside for hours without a full winter outfit.

Things to do in autumn

Hiking. Ounasvaara has easy marked trails right next to town. Further out, Korouoma canyon and the Riisitunturi fells are great day trips.
Reindeer farms. Most farms are open year round, and autumn is a calm, quiet time to visit them.
Huskies. Many husky farms do cart rides or walks with the dogs before the snow comes.
Sauna and a swim. The water is cold but not frozen. Sauna, lake, sauna again. Repeat.
Northern lights tours. See our Experiences page for tours you can book directly.

Weather and what to wear

September is usually around +5 to +12 °C during the day, October closer to 0 to +5 °C, and nights can drop below zero. Bring a waterproof jacket, a warm sweater, a hat and good walking shoes or boots. The first snow often comes in October, and some years it stays from early November.

Why autumn is a smart time to visit

Fewer tourists, so popular places feel calm
Lower accommodation prices than in December or February
Long, dark evenings for the aurora, but still daylight for hiking
Easy driving conditions before the snow and ice

If this sounds like your kind of trip, have a look at our homes by the lakes and forests . Several of them have a private sauna and a terrace facing the water, which is exactly where you want to be on a clear autumn night.

What to pack for Lapland in winter: a local's list

Mon, 05 Oct 2026 07:30:42 GMT

Layers, boots and the small things that make a cold day easy.

Every winter we meet guests who arrive in Rovaniemi in a city coat and trainers. They survive, but they don't enjoy it. The good news: you don't need expensive gear to stay warm in Lapland. You need the right layers. This is the list we'd give a friend.

How cold does it get?

From December to February it's usually somewhere between −10 °C and −25 °C, and a few nights each winter go below −30 °C. It's a dry cold, which feels easier than damp cold at the same temperature, but wind and standing still both make it feel a lot colder.

The three-layer rule

1. Base layer. Long-sleeve top and long johns in merino wool or a synthetic thermal fabric. No cotton. Cotton holds sweat and makes you cold the moment you stop moving.

2. Mid layer. A wool sweater or fleece. On very cold days, add a thin down or synthetic vest as well.

3. Outer layer. A warm, windproof jacket and insulated winter trousers or ski pants. Your jacket should cover your bottom if possible.

The packing list

2 sets of thermal base layers
1 to 2 wool sweaters or fleeces
Warm winter jacket
Insulated winter or ski trousers
Winter boots with a thick sole, rated for the cold, one size bigger so you can wear thick socks
Wool socks, a few pairs
A warm hat that covers your ears
Thin liner gloves plus thick mittens (mittens are warmer than gloves)
Scarf, buff or neck warmer
Lip balm and a rich face cream, the cold air is very dry
Power bank, cold drains phone batteries fast
Swimsuit, for the sauna and maybe a hole in the ice if you're brave
Slippers or warm socks for indoors

What you don't need to bring

If you've booked a husky, snowmobile or reindeer safari, the tour company almost always lends you a thermal overall, boots and mittens for the trip. So don't buy expedition gear just for that. Check what's included in your tour, and pack for the rest of the time: walking around town, waiting for the aurora, playing in the snow.

If your home has a drying cabinet or a warm sauna dressing room, hang everything there in the evening. Dry gear is warm gear.

Small tips from locals

Don't dress too warm for active things. If you sweat, you'll freeze later. Open your jacket when you're moving.
Keep your phone in an inside pocket, close to your body.
Hand and toe warmers from any supermarket are cheap and work great for aurora nights.
Pavements can be icy. Shoe spikes are sold in most supermarkets and sports shops in town.
Forgot something? Rovaniemi has sports shops and outdoor stores in the centre, and many rental companies rent winter clothing too.

Packing for autumn and spring

In September and October it's usually around 0 to +10 °C. A waterproof jacket, a warm sweater, a hat and proper walking shoes are enough. In March and April the sun is strong on the snow, so add sunglasses and sunscreen to the winter list.

Once you're packed, the rest is easy. Find a warm place to stay , book a few experiences , and if you have any questions before you come, message us .

Rovaniemi or Levi? How to choose for your Lapland trip

Mon, 05 Oct 2026 07:30:29 GMT

City life and Santa, or a ski resort on the fell? Here's how they compare.

Rovaniemi and Levi are the two places most people think of when they plan a Lapland trip. They're about 170 km apart, a bit over two hours by car, and they feel quite different. We have homes in both, so here's how we'd compare them.

Rovaniemi in short

Rovaniemi is a real city of around 65,000 people, sitting right by the Arctic Circle. It's the official hometown of Santa Claus and has the biggest choice of activities in Lapland: husky and reindeer farms, snowmobile safaris, northern lights tours, museums and plenty of restaurants. The airport is about ten minutes from the centre, with direct flights from many European cities in winter.

Choose Rovaniemi if:

it's your first time in Lapland
you're travelling with children and want to visit Santa
you want lots of activities without long drives
you're here for a short trip of 3 to 4 nights
you'd like to have restaurants and shops close by

Levi in short

Levi is a ski resort village in Kittilä, further north and higher up. Life there revolves around the fell: downhill slopes, long cross-country tracks, après-ski and a compact village centre where most things are walking distance apart. Kittilä airport is about 15 minutes away.

Choose Levi if:

skiing is a big part of your holiday
you like a lively resort atmosphere
you're staying a week and want everything in one village
you want fell views and big open landscapes

Snow and season

Levi usually gets reliable snow a bit earlier and keeps it longer, which matters if you're coming in late November or in April. In Rovaniemi the winter season is still long and snowy, roughly from December to March, with the best skiing and snow activities in February and March.

Northern lights

You can see the aurora in both places. Levi is slightly further north, but in practice the weather on the night decides far more than the location. What matters most is getting away from lights. A home outside Rovaniemi by a lake is just as good for aurora watching as anywhere in Levi.

Price

Levi tends to be more expensive in peak ski weeks, especially around Christmas, New Year and the Finnish winter holidays in February and March. Rovaniemi has more accommodation overall, so it's often easier to find something that fits your budget, except in December when everyone wants to meet Santa.

Can you do both?

Yes, and if you have a week it's a great combination. Spend three or four nights in Rovaniemi for Santa, huskies and reindeer, then drive or take the bus north to Levi for skiing and quieter days on the fell. The drive itself, through forest and small villages, is part of the experience.

Our take

For a first visit, short trip or a family Christmas, pick Rovaniemi. For a ski week, pick Levi. And if you can't decide, split the trip.

See our homes in Rovaniemi and Levi , or ask us which one suits your dates. We're happy to help you plan.

Where to stay in Rovaniemi: the areas explained

Mon, 05 Oct 2026 07:30:17 GMT

City centre, Ounasvaara, Santa's village or a lake in the forest?

Rovaniemi is a small city, but where you stay changes your trip more than you'd expect. Some guests want to walk to restaurants. Others want silence, a lake view and a dark sky for the northern lights. Here's how we explain the options to friends who visit.

City centre: easy and walkable

Stay in the centre if you don't have a car and want everything close: restaurants, cafés, shops, the Arktikum museum and the riverside. Most tour companies pick up from central hotels and addresses, so day trips are simple.

Good for: first-time visitors, short stays, people without a car.

Keep in mind: street lights make aurora watching harder. You'll want to take a short walk or a tour to see the lights properly.

Ounasvaara: nature right next to town

Ounasvaara is the hill on the other side of the river, a few minutes' drive from the centre. It has ski slopes, cross-country tracks and walking trails through the forest. In winter you can ski straight into the woods, and on a clear night you get away from most of the city light.

Good for: active travellers, skiers, families who want both nature and the city.

Keep in mind: walking to the centre is possible but a car or taxi is easier in deep winter.

Near Santa Claus Village and the Arctic Circle

Santa Claus Village sits on the Arctic Circle about 8 km north of the centre, close to the airport. Staying nearby makes sense if Santa is the main reason for your trip, especially with small kids. Several husky and reindeer farms are also in this direction.

Good for: families, Christmas trips, early flights.

Keep in mind: you'll need a car, taxi or bus to get into town for dinner.

Lakeside and forest homes outside town

This is where Lapland really feels like Lapland. Fifteen to thirty minutes from the centre you find homes by frozen lakes, surrounded by pine forest, often with their own sauna and almost no light pollution. You can watch the aurora from the terrace, take a sauna and walk down to the shore.

Good for: couples, groups of friends, aurora hunters, anyone who wants to slow down.

Keep in mind: a rental car makes life much easier. Many tour companies can still pick you up, but check before you book.

Hotel or a home?

Hotels are fine for a night or two. For longer stays, families or groups, a home usually gives you more for the money: separate bedrooms, a full kitchen, a drying space for wet winter clothes and often a private sauna. Cooking a few dinners yourself also helps, because eating out in Lapland adds up quickly.

Our quick recommendation

No car, 2 to 3 nights: city centre
Active holiday, skiing: Ounasvaara
Kids and Santa: near Santa Claus Village
Northern lights, peace and sauna: lakeside or forest home

We look after around 90 homes in and around Rovaniemi, plus a few in Levi, and each one is checked and cleaned by our own local team. Browse our stays , or tell us what kind of trip you're planning and we'll suggest a place that fits.

When to see the northern lights in Rovaniemi: a local's guide

Mon, 05 Oct 2026 07:29:59 GMT

Timing, weather and where to look, from people who live here.

We get this question more than any other: when is the best time to see the northern lights in Rovaniemi? The short answer is late August to early April. The longer answer is that the month matters less than most people think. Darkness, clear skies and a bit of patience matter a lot more.

The season: late August to early April

The aurora is up there all year, but you need a dark sky to see it. In June and July the sun barely sets in Rovaniemi, so there is no chance. From the end of August the nights get dark enough, and the season runs until the light comes back in early April.

Each part of the season feels different:

September and October. Our quiet favourite. The lakes haven't frozen yet, so on a calm night you can see the lights twice, in the sky and on the water. It's also mild enough to stand outside for hours without much gear.
November to January. The darkest months. Long nights mean more hours to look, but this is also the cloudiest time of year, so it's a bit of a lottery.
February and March. Often the most reliable. Clear, cold, high-pressure days are more common, there's a lot of snow, and the days are long enough for everything else you want to do.

What actually decides if you see them

Clouds. This is the big one. A strong aurora behind thick cloud is invisible. Check the cloud forecast before the aurora forecast. The Finnish Meteorological Institute's weather maps are good for this.

Darkness. City lights wash out weaker displays. Even 10 to 15 minutes out of the centre makes a big difference. Many of our homes are outside town by a lake or forest, and plenty of our guests see their first aurora from the terrace.

Time of night. Activity often peaks somewhere between 21:00 and 01:00, but it can start any time after dark. Go out, look north, wait. Come back in, warm up, go out again.

Activity level. Aurora apps show the Kp index. In Rovaniemi even a Kp of 2 or 3 can give a good show, because we're so far north. Don't stay inside just because the number looks low.

How many nights should you plan?

If the northern lights are the main reason for your trip, stay at least three or four nights. One night is a gamble against the weather. With four nights your odds get a lot better, and you'll have time to see Lapland during the day too.

Go on your own or take a tour?

Both work. Going on your own is free and relaxed, especially if you're staying outside the centre. A guided tour is worth it on cloudy nights, because guides follow the forecast and drive to wherever the sky is clear. That can mean an hour or more in the car, but it often saves the night. Most guides also take photos for you, which helps if you don't have a camera that handles the dark.

You can book northern lights tours directly on our Experiences page .

Photographing the aurora with your phone

Use night mode and hold the phone still, or lean it against something. A small tripod helps a lot.
Turn off the flash and turn your screen brightness down.
Your camera often sees more colour than your eyes, especially with weak displays. Take a test shot if you're unsure.
Keep a spare battery in an inside pocket. Cold drains phones fast.

Dress for standing still

Aurora watching is mostly standing around in the cold, which is colder than it sounds. Wool base layers, a warm jacket, a hat and proper winter boots make the difference between enjoying the night and giving up after twenty minutes. We wrote a separate packing guide for Lapland in winter if you want the full list.

A quick checklist

Come between late August and early April
Stay three nights or more
Check the cloud forecast first, the aurora forecast second
Get away from city lights
Dress warmer than you think you need

If you want a home where you can step outside and look up, have a look at our stays in Rovaniemi and Levi . And if you have questions about timing, just send us a message . We live here and we're happy to help.